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We may earn an affiliate commission if you buy from one of our product links, at no extra cost to you. This income supports our site. Steps for replacing old levers with new Even though you have to strip off the handlebar tape, replacing levers is easier than installing new ones because you can often use the location of the old levers to position the new some handlebars even have markings at the lever location, making it even easier.
Also mark the point where the rubber hoods contact the handlebar, right at the ends of the tops of the hoods not the sides. Now, you can see and, more importantly, feel how the new lever and hood shape compare to your previous lever position.
It might be that the new levers feel perfect in the same spot as the old ones. But you may want to fine-tune the position.
This is easy to do now that you have great references. You may want to review the positioning guidelines below. For installing levers from scratch no old levers on the bars Before you can install levers correctly, your handlebar angle needs to be correct. Move the levers up to where they look about right and gently tighten them so they stay in place.
The straightedge should now extend forward. See photo. Next double check that the straightedge is in full contact with the very bottom of the handlebar. Also check that the lever is lined up with the handlebar hook and aiming straight ahead, not canted in or out. Note that as you tighten the lever fully, the blade will usually move down a little so plan for that when you locate it.
With both levers positioned via the straightedge, they will be in the same place. Engaging the rotor centers the caliper over the rotor.
While maintaining pressure on the lever, tighten the bolts to set the caliper adjustment. How tight to tighten the bolts? Shimano recommends torque specs of 6 — 8 Nm for the caliper fixing bolts. After tightening the bolts, spin the wheel to make sure the wheel spins freely and there is no drag on the rotor. If there is contact between the rotor and the pads, look to ensure the rotor spins true, the pistons are extending evenly, and verify the caliper is centered over the rotor.
If you have a sticky piston, you may need to work them in and out a bit until they are extending evenly. The newest iteration of Shimano brakes come with the hose unattached to the brake lever. With previous models, you could install the brake and run them with the excess brake hose, then cut them to fit at your convenience. In the past, I would generally run mine on the long side, as I often reuse parts and swap them between bikes.
Cut the hose to your preferred length and usual then install the connector insert. Insert the brake hose in the brake hose connection part and tighten the bolt with your 8mm spanner wrench; as you do this the olive expands to a press-fit and a tight seal. Shimano recommends Nm of torque. When shortening a brake line, it often possible to do it without having to bleed the lever.
Squeeze the lever a few times to extend the pistons a few millimeters. Shorten the line as usual then press the pistons back in when finished. My favorite tool for this is the closed end of a 10mm combination wrench.
Fortunately, Shimano makes it super quck and easy for us to do, provided you have the Shimano Simple Bleed kit. Both are mechanical systems, meaning that the user operates the device by using a lever that pulls a wire attached to the brake assembly. These two systems mount on a central pivot point on the bicycle's front fork.
Linear-pull brakes are often used on bicycles with suspension, while cantilever brakes are not. Remove the grip from the right handlebar. Slide the brake lever onto the right handlebar, with the lever pointed outward.
Tighten the screw on the lever's mounting bracket until the lever is secure. Replace the grip on the right handlebar. Pull the brake lever, then slide the brake cable through the slot in the lever.
Feed the end of the cable into the cable adjustment barrel. Bolt the brake assembly onto the front fork of the bicycle. Position the brake shoes next to the rim of the front wheel. Loosen the nut attached to the cable anchor bolt, located on the side of the brake assembly.
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